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Puzzle solved
After much racking of my poor brain, I have come up with a solution for finishing the van dyked hem on the Archery Gown. I tried pressing the edges under with the idea that if it worked I'd do it on the black as well, but I just couldn't get a neat enough line. I threw out both of my earlier ideas and decided to use a wide double fol bias tape. Instead of actually binding the edges, I have just laid it on top and folded it at each point. I wish I could find some reference to how they did it in period.