anielmom: (Default)
dealt with, though not in the usual way.  Not having enough pink to make a facing (no way was I going to try to fold this up in the usual fashion) I opted for binding.  Once I get the 3+ yds of hem stitched down, I'll then stitch the bound edge down so it has the typical tuck you se in lined jackets.  (not sure that made much sense)
Now it's on to making the bias ruched trim for neckline, cuff, and hem.

Ummm....

Feb. 6th, 2010 08:09 pm
anielmom: (Default)
Was bad and picked up a book, which turned into two, which stalled progress on the paletot.  So.  I've set myself a deadline of Valentine's day to get it done.

Still to do:

Sew down hem facing
Hem lining
Make new sleeve (the original is looking a bit more like a leg 'o mutton than I'd like)
Make and attach bias trim.
Make belt
Tack back pleats down
progress pics so far.... )

Paletot

Jan. 30th, 2010 08:26 pm
anielmom: (Default)
almost done.  Ben sewing a lot, hope to be done tonight.  Will post more then.
anielmom: (Default)
Maybe.  Long day today, with only about an hour to sew.  Did a little more tweaking to the pattern (more on that in my next post), and got a sleeve sewn up.  Will put in paletot tomorrow and test fit to armscye.  Looks good just pinned on, so, here's hoping....
anielmom: (Default)
For now.  I think I have a pretty good draft now, but am having issues getting it together.  Tired.  And what's with these period sewing texts?  They treat sleeves like an afterthought.  "Draft sleeve with the scale"  Nothing else.  Soooo useful.  Nothing about getting the 2 blasted pieces together.  I think I need to "hold" some fullness in one side at the elbow, but can't for the life of me decide where. 
So, pics of one and two )

Grrr.

Jan. 24th, 2010 10:17 pm
anielmom: (Default)
Giving up for the night.  Round 2 was a bit better, but I think I'll draft another sleeve tomorrow.  The elbow bend is giving me issues on this one, and I think I may have the grainline wrong.

I hate sleeves.

Sleeve 1

Jan. 24th, 2010 08:17 pm
anielmom: (Default)
Fail.  Not epic, but fail.  Going to make a few tweaks, then I'll put up the pics. 

Sleevin'

Jan. 23rd, 2010 10:09 pm
anielmom: (Default)
The headache finally let up a bit.  Of course, I'm so hopped up on caffeine from the "cure" that I can't just sit and relax.  So, I've just finished drafting the sleeve for the paletot.  Of course, Victorian ladies were not equipped with long monkey arms like me, so I had to add a whole 4".  Tomorrow, I'll cut one out and see how it fits.  Fingers crossed it goes well.
anielmom: (Default)
The paletot muslin is coming together nicely.   I think my patterning teacher would be appalled if she saw the actual pattern, but the muslin is looking good. 
I got it stitched up and took pics, then realized I forgot to sew up the front darts.  Sooo, back to the machine, and more pics!  Then the Nikon ate some pics, so more pics.

Results of all the picture taking... )
So far, I'm very pleased with how this is coming together.  I'm happy with the fit and am actually diggin' the grapes at the moment.  Perhaps it has something to do with living in wine country....  Whatever, I'm always amazed when I take a tinny 1/8 scale pattern, sized for someone a bit smaller i might add, and turn it into something that fits me!  Boggles my mind every time!  This is why I love sewing!!!  

For tomorrow:  Draft sleeve.  Yikes!  If draft goes smoothly, I'll get the sleeve in and check fit.


anielmom: (Default)
Alright.  that might be a tad strong.  But pleats really annoy me.

I accomplished what I set out to do for today.  Namely trace off patterns, add s.a., and get the paletot cut out I even started stitching the muslin that isn't muslin, and have the back pleats pinned in.  I'll finish basing those suckers down tomorrow, then get the fronts on.
grape plaits! )
anielmom: (Default)
I think.  Through a combination of drafting, flat pattern and draping, I think I've managed to get the paletot patterned.  (Sans sleeve.)  I need to trace off the pattern, and get a muslin sewn up.  Then I'll tackle the sleeve.  Think I'll give Klemm's sleeve draft a try. 

For reference, this is what I'm going for....


April, 1868

I'm toying around with the idea of adding button strips to loop the back and sides up and give it a bustled look.  Might look cute with a pair of jeans.

For Tomorrow :
Trace off pattern
Cut out muslin
anielmom: (Default)
from costume, but not Victorian.  Ever since getting the Grimble books, I've been drooling over the illustration of a Watteau paletot from1868.  I love it so much, I've decided to make it for ever day wear.   So, I spent an hour or so graphing and patterning.  I've got the front scaled up and need to add seam allowances.  Then I'll cut that out, and use it to drape the back, which I think will be easier as it's basically a rectangle with back pleats.  As for the sleeve......well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

So goal for tonight - Add s.a. and cut out front.
anielmom: (Default)
Had time to sit down with the pattern today.  I took 3" off of each seam, for a total of 12", and lowered the armscye an inch.  It made a huge difference in the fit.  *note- there is a pattern for a chemise with the same shape, but gathered into a yoke, drafted with the same measures as this one.  So much for Klemm's "perfec" system.* I may shave a little more off the armscye, well see when I get to the finishing stage.
yet more pics this way..... )
anielmom: (Default)
I've been mulling over the problem for the last two days.  I was very concerned that I'd gone wrong somewhere in the drafting.  So, I measured the units on the apportioning scale, and converted those into inches.  In turns out that 1 unit=3/8 of an inch.  I checked the pattern and found that the width for both the front and back (which are essentially the same pattern, the neckline depth being the only difference) is 19".  That's 3" larger than my 1/2 bust measurement.  Multiply that by four, ( 2 pattern peaces cut on the fold) and you can see where the problem arises.  You could literally fit two of me in the thing!
See pictures here! )
anielmom: (Default)
After spending the morning piecing together the apportioning scale for my size, I went ahead and drafted up a chemise.  The process was simple, and went smoothly.  Tonight I was able to get a mock up cut and sewn.  Glad I decided not to just cut into the linen tissue (60%linen/40%cotton).  It's a bit big.  Got the alterations marked and pinned.  I'm taking a good 3" off each side, and pinched another 2" or so out of the back!  Plan on getting those stitched in sometime this week.  Would like to do it tomorrow, but Wed. and Thurs. are a bit busy here, so may have to wait 'till Fri.  We'll see how I feel.
Now it's off to bed.  Haven't been sleeping too good lately, so am hoping for better tonight.  Maybe the rain will help lull me.
anielmom: (Default)
Hopefully many more projects to come.  Finished the drawers.  I have pics, but they aren't the best.  Bad bathroom lighting, sans flash.

under here.... )
I was going to toss together a little Victorian cap, but after drafting up the pattern, and cutting out the foundation, I realized I didn't have any tulle.  So I spent the morning making up apportioning scales in my uncorseted size to start on my chemise.  If I'm not to tired this afternoon, I';; begin drafting that.  I picked up a fairly light weight linen/cotton blend for this yesterday.
anielmom: (Default)
wrestled the #$$#@&^^%$# waistband into submission!  Seriously!  I just couldn't get the mondo drawers into the dratted thing evenly last night!  After 2 hours of futzing and swearing, I gave up and tried to go to bed.  I say tried, 'cause the dastardly thing haunted my dreams, and I'd wake up worrying about it. 
anielmom: (Default)
These hand finished seams are taking longer than I expected.  Grrrrrr!
anielmom: (Default)
Almost there.  Took too long to get the waistband the right length, a common problem for me.  But all I've got left is attaching said waistband and knee bands, and felling the seams!  Hopefully to be accomplished by the end of the weekend, as I'll be doing the felling by hand.  It just looks nicer that way.
anielmom: (Default)
I had plans to spend yesterday embroidering my fingers to the bone, and D. was on board.  Unfortunately, I felt horrible, and spent the day in bed.  Bleh. 
So far I've managed 18 of the 27 shamrocks on the first knee band for the drawers.
pictorial evidence and E's crafty self )

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